Other things that I remember are that everywhere in the bustle of this city, there are islands of tranquility and the neighborhoods are just neighborhoods with people in them trying to live out their lives peacefully. I remember the green grocers (Safire will love this)that are effectively a farmer's market every day. Seasonal vegetables and fruits that are more or less vine ripened. Right now it's mikan (mandarin oranges to the uninitiated) season and they are fresh and very juicy. I bought a pack on Saturday and ate 4 as soon as I got back to the hotel. Just sooooo good.
They still have the little soba shops (small noodle restaurants with maybe 20 seats) serving delicious bowls of noodles, curry rice and other items. The recipe for the broth is the same as it was 35 years ago, take chicken and fish bones and just simmer them all day adding shoyu (soy sauce) and maybe some seasoning.
One thing that is happily missing, though I did get a whiff yesterday is the grey water ditches. They have finally covered those....
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